guide reset

For those of you trying the homebrew oven methods and heat guns you
might note that those SMT chips are put in place by robots with a small
sticky to hold it in place and solder paster on the board and it's run
through an oven as a whole board and immediately cooled at the end. No
airflow is used in the ovens as it would fling chip caps and resistors
all over the place. Well for home repair same applies - the best method
is a hot air soldering station as you can focus the heat only on the
contacts and there is such a low flow of air that it won't blow anything
around. Also too much heat will kill semiconductors besides melting
plastics as noted. An alternative would be a butane pocket torch that
has adjustable flame that you can bring down to a low low flame so it
doesnt blow too hard but delivers heat where it's needed.
Biggest
problem with HP is that they are still in business. Once the last of
the founders passed away the company went to crap and steadily worse
since, even in the expensive server lines. I was an ASP from early 2000
till they killed ASPs off that werent promoting them by buying
outrageous amounts of resellables - since 2006 I havent seen a HP/CPQ
item I would personally buy for myself so I'm sure not selling them.
Same with Dell. Acer is my focus now and possibly Gateway and E-Machines
since Acer bought them up earlier this year (as well as Packard Bell in
EU) but of course they don't make printers so I'll hang onto the
machines I have that are of 99 vintage or older.

I just replaced
a formatter on a P3005 non-network unit today, same 49.C02 error,
steadily worse each day and it did have the Toshiba chip under the
label. Of course it's outside the serials listed and of course HP blows
it off as out of warranty. Got a refurb from Liberty with the ST chip
and works fine (so far). Used the magnifier on the SMT Toshiba chip and
no bad solder joints noted. Used my hot air soldering/desoldering
station and reflowed the solder all around and put it back in - same
problem. Flashed the firmware, no change. The Liberty board was put back
and works fine.

HP, as mentioned, has turned from the #1 to the
worst - only way to bring them to their knees and either put them out
of business, or get them to bring quality back and manufacturing back to
the US, is to boycott buying their products unless it's a refurbished
older unit with a good history, even if that means putting a 4Si or 5Si
into use in an office. Maybe not the fastest but no chips on toners and
very reliable and cheap to maintain - and lots of spares when it does
need work. I'm pushing all my regulars to swear off HP as quick as
possible for new purchases and for most they are fed up with HP anyway
so it's not hard to convince them.

Repair or Reset Canon iP 1880

This is how to reset Canon iP 1880 :

1. Press Resume button and hold for 1 - 2 minutes
2. Open the cover
3. Release the catridge and then put them on again
4. Close The Cover
5. Turn off the printer
6. Turn it on again.

Or you can use IPTool software to reset,

Step 1 : Manual for service mode 

1. Unplug power and USB.
2. Open door and hold power button.
3. Connect power.
4. Close door, then release power button.
5. Open Iptool then klik "Reset Main"
   
   Download IPTool

Gota' Canon S-9000, issuing a "7-blink error code"-
#1. How do I enter the Service Codes reset area?

#2. Where can I get a definitions & reset 'menu' for all the error codes on my S-9000?

Page 2.

The
problem started with ink clogs in the printhead. I bought another one
from Canon (about $65.00 cuts), it went OK for 6 mo. then another clog
problem - I could see, this was going to get expensive!

I pulled
out the old Printhead to do experimental 'brain surgery' on it. I [very
carefully] unscrewed the (actual) printing head from the bottom of the
inktank cartridge and carefully lifted it back. There were the (6) Ink
Ports!

I litely cleaned (and flushed) all 6 nozzle ports clear
of all ink residue (plus the strainer ports above), and re-assembled.
Installed (6) new ink tanks [and waited a 1/2 hour for ink to purge air
out of head ports].

Powered-up and of course got the "7" fatal error code blinks and no action from the printhead. "Good Grief"!

Last question on this run - In removing the actual

Try this

1. Power off the printer
2. Power on the printer and watch for the memory count in the display
3. When the memory count appears in the display, press and hold the Menu button
4. When all 3 LED's are on and steady, release the Menu button.
5. Press and release the Back/Exit button
6. When you see INITIALIZE DISKS, press and release the Green Tick button

This error could appears on these models: EPL-N3000, Aculaser C1100, Aculaser C1900





Solution 1: “Secondary transfer voltage contact/release problem”

• Some electric parts can cause the trouble: 
• Transfer Roller Pressure Solenoid (SL2) 
• Transfer Roller Pressure Position Detection Sensor (PC7) 
• Engine Board (PWB-A)  

Solution 2:

• The problem come from the fuser. You have to replace it.
• EPL-N3000: C13S053017BA 
• Aculaser  C1100: 2090471
• Aculaser C1900: 2077368

1. Download shoftware for epson c67
2. Change your setting PC DATE to Mar 1 2006
3. Reboot your PC.
4. UNZIP file C67.rar
5. RUN AdjProg.exe file. Here is it!

To reset waste ink counter

• choose Particular adjustment mode
• Maintenance
• Waste ink pad counter
• Check
• Initialization

Protection counter is the counter for wasted ink; it says to printer how
much space it has in special tray where all wasted ink are going during
cleaning procedures. With time it became full (printer just won't print
in this case) and absorbtion padding must be replaced. After replacing
the padding You must reset the protection counter to zero in order to
continue ordinary printing.


Repair or reset procedure for EPSON RX500:
Press all following buttons :Power, Load/Eject, Stop, B&W, Color,
after this printer turns on and you'll see "Init eeprom" on printer screen.
Press Color button to clear protection counter.

Alternate. Hold down "clear + setup + on"
Continue
to hold the buttons until the printer had powered on, then off again,
then back on. Once you noticed that the LCD had flashed a blank screen,
let go of the 3 keys. In the LCD window you now have access to 3
options using the select keys.

Look for an abbreviation
resembling "ink pad level" . Here is where Held down the clear button
for around 10 seconds. LCD must read "Press Power to Reset."